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Is there really anything more Canadian than maple syrup? I mean the thing is on our flag.  And with the amount of leaves we rake every fall, we must be rolling in maple trees, right?

I took a trip up to Sugar Moon Farm and had a chance to learn a little bit more about just what it takes to turn all those trees into the perfect sidekick to a heaping pile of pancakes.

My husband and I  heard that there was a hiking trail that covered the grounds around the sugar farm, and we’d heard that there might be some pancakes involved in the day’s visit…

The 6.2 km hike over the Rogart Trail is a beautiful way to see some amazing Nova Scotia territory – a river (known locally as New Portugal Brook) leads the way through most of the hike, and about ¾ of the way through you come across a beautiful waterfall.

My piece of advice to you? Hike first, eat at the pancake house afterwards.  By the time we finished covering some fairly substantial ground, we were both starving. 

The pancake house is next door to the sugar shack, and as soon as you walk in you are met with a wonderful old stove cranking out a ton of heat (it was a chilly day for late April).  The room instantly makes you feel warm and cozy – there’s another fireplace towards the opposite end of the room, the view to the flat-top grill is open, and there are exposed beams and beautiful wooden walls.

I had already started gnawing on my jacket sleeve, and our server took that as a pretty good indication we were ready to eat.  We sat in front of the fireplace and took a look at our possibilities. 

Being a lover of maple syrup, I was hooked when I saw that they have a maple beer made by Garrison Brewery in Halifax.  In addition, the server recommended their specialty, known as the Sugar Moon Special: three pancakes, sausage, and a side of homemade baked beans.  One look between the husband and I and we were both in. 

Let me tell you something about those pancakes – and I consider myself to be somewhat of a connoisseur – Sugar Moon has found the great balance between a fluffy middle and a crispy exterior.  The whole plate was great, and hit the spot after a 6.2 km hike.

After snacking, we had the chance to chat with Quita Gray (she owns Sugar Moon Farm with her husband Scott Whitelaw) who gave us a wonderful history of how they came to be part of this industry and the work that goes into operating a working sugar farm. 

Both Quita and Scott have backgrounds in forestry, and looked to Sugar Moon Farm as a way to combine an abiding interest in things agricultural and a mutual love of the forest– and being a sugar producer was certainly it. 

They met with the farm’s previous owner and agreed to a two-year apprenticeship in maple production as part of the deal to purchase the operation.  That was in 1996, and since then they’ve been perfecting their craft just outside of Earltown. They’ve done a ton of work to make the New England-style operation as authentic as possible.  They traveled throughout Quebec, Ontario, and the Eastern US to find the right model to bring back to Nova Scotia.  They began year round operations in 2001.

So how busy could a sugar farm get during peak season? 450 people a day, kind of busy. And most of that action is packed into the months of March and April – although they are open year-round. 

Quita took us on a tour of their facility (this is something they do for free) and we had the chance to learn a lot about the art and science of making maple syrup. 

Here’s a little tidbit: 85% of the maple syrup in the world is produced in Canada, but Quebec produces 90% of Canada’s maple syrup, which leaves a tiny little slice for Nova Scotia.  We make the best of our short window for maple-making, and considering that the season in Nova Scotia is only two months long, producers like Sugar Moon Farm, and the other 49 in the province, do a great job of satisfying our maple needs.

And it takes a ridiculous amount of time to coax the sap out of the trees to even make the syrup.  Each tree is tapped once per season and yields (in an average year) about 20 litres of sap per tap, which makes 500ml of maple syrup. So next time you walk by a maple tree, reach out and give it a hug. It’s working hard. 

The rest of the tour took us to see where they boil the sap to produce syrup; the folks at Sugar Moon use a wood-fired system that mimics the traditional style of syrup making found in New England and Quebec. 

The sap is carried by gravity to the sugar shack through a series of tubes that run in a network directly from the trees.  It’s an impressive feat considering that they have close to 35 acres of trees.

They boil sap about 12 to 16 times over a three to six week period. Also, when the sap is harvested during the maple season influences not only the color, but also the taste of the syrup.  Syrup produced from taps early in the season is lighter in colour, and has an almost honey-like sweetness.  Syrup produced from sap harvested later on in the season is darker in color and has distinctive caramel qualities. Who’d thought you could get all this from some little ole’ maple trees?

So my husband and I headed home with our maple in tow, and we got to thinking about what we could make with our sweet treat. We decided to go with an old favourite – salmon. 

We decided to grill the salmon, and pair that with a simple maple Dijon potato salad, and some grilled peppers.  Making the glaze for the salmon is dead easy: take your maple syrup and grate the zest of one orange into it.  Glaze your salmon and then put it on the grill and cook to medium. 

For the potato salad: sautee one diced onion, and de-glaze your pan with some apple cider vinegar.  Add a tablespoon of grainy Dijon mustard, and two tablespoons of maple syrup, season with thyme, salt, and pepper and toss with boiled new potatoes. And you thought that maple syrup was just for your pancakes!

We also took whole, mini sweet peppers and tossed them lightly in olive oil, salt and pepper and put those on the grill to char slightly. 

Sugar Moon Farm is another great example of a family owned business carving a niche for themselves in a home-grown industry.  So the next time you need a pancake, or a 6.2km hike, or some beer made of maple syrup, or an amazing, feel-good meal (they also host amazing Chef’s Nights with local chefs), take yourself to Sugar Moon Farm.  Just be sure to enjoy the hike first, food second!

Even in a city like Halifax, where there’s a more relaxed approach to dining, a fine dining experience can be a daunting proposition. The Press Gang, one of Halifax’s finest dining experiences, ignores that premise, and creates a comfortable environment where patrons can focus on their food and their enjoyment.

My meeting with executive chef Beth Muise confirmed this idea immediately. Her enthusiasm and relaxed demeanour was infectious and immediately put me at ease. It also built my excitement for the exquisite meal I saw in my future.

The goal is good food, excellently prepared. The Press Gang’s menu features a lot of local food products, and adds some exotic complements – like kangaroo or ostrich. In our conversation, Chef Beth talked about how she liked to challenge herself, and the menu certainly proves that.

After getting situated at my table and taking in the swirl of activity that kicked off the evening dinner service, my friendly and attentive server, Jamie, showed up with bread from Boulangerie de la Vendeene and a some fun suggestions for a cocktail to kick things off.

The Press Gang has a terrific selection of wines and cocktails, and I couldn’t resist the idea of dessert before dinner with a blueberry martini. A sweet treat with a kick, Nova Scotia’s official berry is delicious in this fine, muddled form.

Ordering dinner took a matter of seconds. I checked out the menu online in advance, then peppered Chef Beth with questions about her favourite dishes. Her suggestions were absolutely perfect.

For a starter, I had the seared sea scallops in a green apple-wasabi purée with nori flakes. The scallops were cooked to tender perfection. The apple-wasabi purée was tangy and sweet, with a little kick of heat that follows each bite. Delicious.

During each course, and even between courses, my server stopped by to check in on my meal, to make sure it met my expectations, and to provide me with an estimated time of arrive for my next course.

I also took Chef Beth’s suggestion for my main, and had the Brome Lake Duck Breast served with a Dragon’s Breath blue cheese bread pudding and roasted parsnips and a Yukon potato purée.

The duck was rich and tender, with sweetness from the brandy and red currant glaze. I worked my way through it slowly and deliberately, it was simply too good. The bread pudding was sweet and sharp; the flavour of the blue cheese was certainly present, but not overwhelming. With a hearty serving of roasted vegetables, the meal was well-balanced and met every expectation set by Chef Beth’s enthusiastic recommendation.

For the next course, I was presented with two menus, a dessert menu and a Scotch menu. With over 100 single malt whiskies, plus blends, one thing I knew for sure is that I have a lot to learn about single malts.

Returning to my comfort zone with the dessert menu, I decided on the spiced apple cake to complement the savoury duck I had just finished. The cake was served with a variety of berries, warm apple compote, and a spiced rum caramel sauce. It was light and spicy, the perfect capper to my leisurely dinner.

Chef Beth wants guests to have a complete, relaxing meal experience – taking as much time as they want to relax and have a fun evening. I didn’t quite manage to put in the four hours it was suggested I could stay, but I gave it a great try. A meal this delicious could not have been rushed. My experience was enhanced by the cozy atmosphere, with exposed stone, wooden beams, and dark corners, being conducive to a great meal, as well as serious business, leisurely chats with friends, or even a secret rendezvous.

If you’re looking for a special treat for Mother’s Day, the Press Gang will have a unique brunch opening from 12:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. on Sunday, May 13, 2012. Chef Beth is putting together a special menu for the day and will also have special desserts. Contact the restaurant for a reservation or book through Opentable.

The Press Gang is a great place to treat yourself whether you’re up for a three-course meal or just want to unwind with some oysters and a cocktail after a crushing week at work.

The simple pleasures of a gorgeously-prepared meal cannot be overstated. It is fine, fun dining – for special occasions or a simple evening out.

Ever since I moved to Halifax over a decade ago, the Halifax Farmers’ Market has held a special place in my heart.  Then, it was about getting lost in the corridors of the old brewery and looking for a late morning breakfast to take the edge off of the…dehydration…that I sometimes suffered on Saturday mornings. 

Now, I show up a few hours earlier than I used to, buckle Ada into her baby carrier and wander through the new Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market.  One thing that the market has always nurtured for me is a sense of connection.  The market is like my Cheers – I almost always run into someone I know, and most of my favourite vendors know me. 

Lately, as I’ve tried more and more to use local ingredients in my cooking, I feel connected to the seasons when I head to the market.  There’s something kind of wonderful about knowing when the first fiddleheads are harvested, or when it is time for roasted Brussels sprouts to become a more regular part of our dinner menus.

This past Saturday at the Seaport market gave me the opportunity to hang out with a good friend, shop for my Sunday dinner, and enjoy a few treats along the way.  I met my pal inside and we headed up to Bramoso Gourmet Pizzeria so I could grab one of their famous breakfast pizzas.  We caught each other up on the week’s events while I chowed down on my egg-topped slice and tried not to let any bacon pieces fall on Ada’s head.  Eating while wearing my baby in a carrier is an art that I’m still learning! 

After breakfast we started our slow, meandering walk through the market, weaving around fellow shoppers, squeezing fresh breads, smelling herbs, and listening to the soulful serenades of buskers tucked into various corners.  I piled my shopping basket full of colourful root vegetables and apples from Noggins Corner Farm. 

We stopped amongst a group of taste-testers surrounding the Ironworks Distillery stall and decided to join the fun.  I tasted a sample of their arctic kiwi liqueur – yes, these strange little kiwis do grow in Nova Scotia – and their pear eau de vie.  Strong enough to put hair on your chest, the eau de vie comes in a beautiful bottle with a pear in the bottom of it.  The folks at Ironworks slide the bottle over the pear tree branch in the spring to achieve this unique presentation.  Isn’t that the coolest?

To complete our morning, we stopped at Schoolhouse Gluten-free Gourmet to pick up some tea biscuits and then wandered over to Fox Hill Cheese House. 

Fox Hill’s corner of the market was bustling with what seemed like a conveyer belt of people unloading empty milk jugs from their grocery bags and backpacks and replacing them with freshly filled containers.  I picked up some chocolate milk, feta cheese and a little bowl of pistachio gelato for the road.  As we headed outside, the mid-afternoon sun threatened to melt my ice cream, making it even more difficult to transfer from the bowl, over Ada’s head and into my mouth, but the sweet, nutty confection motivated me to do my best.

Following such a successful market trip, I couldn’t wait to get home, unload my basket of goodies and start cooking. 

After a fortifying swig of my chocolate milk right out of the bottle, I went out on the deck to fire up the grill.  Ada sat in her bouncy chair on the kitchen counter while I took a pop can I’d filled with Garrison Nut Brown Ale (a fixture in our fridge, kind of like the chocolate milk is going to be) and put it inside the cavity of a small chicken I had thawed earlier.  The chicken went on the barbecue while I started dicing the carrots, turnips, parsnips and beets that I had picked up from Noggins. 

All this dicing made me hungry for a little pre-dinner nibble, so I warmed a gluten-free biscuit, slathered it in butter and molasses, and poured myself a Garrison chocolate soda (evidently I have a bit of a thing for chocolate in its’ liquid form).  I tossed the vegetables in some olive oil, salt and pepper and slid them in the oven. 

As the chicken and vegetables cooked, I quartered some zucchini, poured some vanilla balsamic and olive oil over them and placed them on the sizzling grill. Soon, I was holding Ada on my lap with one hand while using my fork to chase my awesome dinner around on my plate with the other hand.  ‘

The roasted root vegetables were naturally sweet and complemented with a crumble of salty Fox Hill feta cheese;  the chicken was tender with just a hint of maltiness from the beer, and the zucchini, topped with a bit of shaved Parmesan, rounded out the meal. 

For dessert, I put some diced apples in ramekins, squished a buttery, oaty, sugary, cinnamon-y mixture on top and baked them.  A dollop of cold whipped cream on these hot little crisps made my local food-inspired meal complete.

As I hung up my grocery basket for another week I reflected on how my Saturday morning excursions to the Seaport market, though different now than they were in my undergraduate days, have become a staple in my weekend routine. 

The market is such an energetic, thriving place; a venue that fosters an appreciation for homegrown foods, talent and artistry, a place where friendships are cultivated, and a true fixture in our city’s culture.

The Atlantic Canada Wine Symposium Gala Reception and Dinner, taking place at the Westin Nova Scotian Hotel will showcase the finest locally produced products from farm to table as well as Atlantic Canadian wines to compliment renowned Chef Raj Gupta’s exquisite menu.

Meet our winemakers and experience the finest Atlantic Canadian cuisine paired with award-winning local wines. more…

Slow Food Nova Scotia is back with its third annual Spring Supper. Billed as the down home, no fuss, culinary event of the season, this year’s dinner will feature 11 of the region’s top chefs working together to bring you a staggering seven-course, locally-sourced Nova Scotian church supper unlike any other. All courses will be paired with Nova Scotian wines. Local food producers, brewers, vintners and foodies alike will round out this incredible evening.

Participating chefs/restaurants include: Craig Flinn (Chives Canadian Bistro), Dennis Johnston (Fid Resto), Roland Glauser (Charlotte Lane Café), Renée Lavallée (The Feisty Chef), Chris Velden (The Flying Apron Cookery), Jason Lynch (Le Caveau), Earlene Busch (Chanterelle Country Inn), Martin Ruiz Salvador (Fleur de Sel), Luis Clavel (Atlantica Hotel) as well as Zane Kelsall and Tara MacDonald (Two If By Sea Café). This is a remarkable volunteer effort as all the chefs, servers and organizers donate their time and work collectively towards spreading the Slow Food ethos of good, clean and fair local food for all.

This event, presented by Slow Food Nova Scotia, is sponsored by Taste of Nova Scotia and Wines of Nova Scotia. It is organized in support of the Canadian Chefs’ Congress and Slow Food International’s 1000 Gardens in Africa Project. The dinner is open to the public.

The Details:

• When: Saturday, May 5, 2012
• Where: Christ Church Community Center, Lower Level, 61 Dundas Street, Dartmouth
• Tickets $85 each ($75 Slow Food members) + HST, available at Chives Canadian Bistro, Brooklyn Warehouse and Two If By Sea Café (Dartmouth location). Cash or cheque, in-person only.
• Ticket price includes seven-course dinner paired with Nova Scotian wines
• Cash bar during reception (Garrison Beer and a Nova Scotian signature cocktail featuring Ironworks Distillery)
• Reception 6:30PM, Dinner 7:00PM
• 145 people (plus volunteers approx. 155)

Contacts: Craig Flinn (chefcraig@chives.ca), George Christakos (g.l.christakos@gmail.com).

Why do you, or why is it important to support local?
To ensure a thriving industry in our area, which will supply me with incredibly fresh product

What is your favourite kitchen “tool” or gadget?
My Hands or a Truffle slicer 

What is the best thing about being a chef?
Making people happy by supplying them an escape

What is your ultimate comfort food?
Dennis’s Pad Thai (Fid Resto)

What is your favourite item on your menu?
Milk braised Martock Glen Boar Ragout with Papardelle

What is your guilty pleasure?
Pie

What is the one Taste of Nova Scotia product that you can’t live without?
Boulangerie la Vendeene bread/ Grand Pre Wine

Aside from your own restaurant, what other Taste restaurant to you frequent?
Fid Resto

What is a piece of advice you have for home chefs?
Try anything, Play, Have fun

What is the best meal you have ever had?
A chef’s tasting at Rojo in Seville, Spain

Have you cooked for any celebrities?
Yes, Beau Bridges, Minnie Driver, Christopher Plummer and my favorite, Peter Gzowski 

Recipe provided by:

Here is our take on the traditional East Coast salt cod cakes:

Ingredients
½ lb Salt Cod
¼ lb Haddock
1 lb Noggins Potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼’s
1 small White Onion, small dice
1 tbsp Farmer Johns Summer Savory

Directions
1) Remove the salt cod from the package and soak overnight in 4 cups of cold water.
2) The next day, strain the salt cod and put it in a medium sized pot with the haddock and potatoes. Cover with cold water and put on medium heat until the potatoes are tender.
3) While the potato/fish is cooking, heat 1 tbsp canola oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onions and cook until soft. Add the savory and cool.
4) Strain the potato/fish mixture and discard the liquid. Add to a mixing bowl with the onions and using a potato masher mix together. Don’t mash too much–some small chunks only make it more rustic.
5) Shape into small cakes and fry in hot oil.
6) Serve with the Naked Pickle’s Tomato Chow and a little mustard.

In the Bluenose Era, the 1920s and 1930s, Lunenburg was a hive of activity, the harbour filled with masts and sails, including those of the famous schooner Bluenose. This was also the time of prohibition and the highly romanticized “rum running” era.

In the coming months of 2012, this world heritage site will be revitalized with the arrival of Tall Ships and the re-launch of the Bluenose. Along with the ships, a hidden treasure at the waterfront – a former blacksmith’s shop, now the craft distillery, Ironworks, will afford a sensory rich opportunity to ‘taste the spirits of Lunenburg’.

The harbour has long been Lunenburg’s “eau de vie”.  It has been the place from which new ventures were successfully launched – ship building, marine resource harvesting, international trade … it is a place of world significance.

Well, the future often reflects the past – the recently launched Ironworks is a distillery with world connections.  Their fine liqueurs, eau de vie, rums and vodkas bring to world travellers tastes of Nova Scotia. Apples, pears and berries augment the silky smoothness of their unique tasting opportunities.

The searing heat of the fire in the forge, the ringing sound of the anvil – reverberations of Thomas Walters’ turn of the century blacksmith days resonate within the Ironworks Distillery.  The building housing Ironworks was, until recently, the Walters Blacksmith Shop and had been in continuous use by the Walters family since 1893.  The Walters Blacksmith Shop had the distinction of being the shop chosen to do the “shipsmithing” (ironworks) for the original Bluenose, the Bluenose II, the HMS Rose and the HMS Bounty replica.

In the summer of 2009, Pierre Guevremont and Lynne MacKay began renovation of that blacksmith shop, to create a working area for their beautiful German-made still, affectionately named “Bergita”, as well as a tasting and shopping venue for future customers.  Pierre and Lynne took care to preserve the unique historical character of this late 19^th century building, one of the landmarks of the Old Town.  Three months later, their first batch of vodka made its way from an unassuming copper tube to a few testing glasses on their kitchen table.

More than Spirits in the Bottle
But more artistry for the eyes and mind abounds within the walls of this heritage building.

Many coastal communities can tell you “how they got the ship in the bottle”; but only Lunenburg’s Ironworks can show you how to grow a pear in a bottle – “eau de vie de poire”.

 
Set below the window looking onto the harbour, is a magician’s table of bottles, each containing a fully matured pear. The clear liquid enveloping the pear is a silky smooth elixir of eau de vie flavoured by the pear.

The eau de vie was created from the fermentation of a mash of whole pears (stems, seeds, skins and all) which occurs in the building’s original stone-lined basement.   

Centre stage in the distilling process is “Bergita”, the magnificent copper and stainless steel pot still. Bergita boils the mash, collects the alcohol vapour as it rises, then cools that vapour back to a liquid – distilled alcohol, and each time the product goes through the still, it rises in proof. On each run, Pierre and Lynne can decide when to keep the alcohol and when to discard it.  This process, called removing the “heads and tails”, leaving the “heart”, brings out the art of distilling and the personal style of the distiller.

But how did the pear get in the bottle? Well it just grew there!

Actually, in the spring, Ironworks artisans tie over 300 bottles in the trees of a Valley pear orchard. Each bottle contains a pear bud. Carefully nurtured throughout the summer; the bottles are “picked from the trees” – with the pear inside.

Sounds a little quirky? Well in Europe, there are hundreds of such bottled trees being harvested each year in support of the èau de vie liqueur industry.

The Nose Knows
While the eyes and mind are deceived by the bottled pear, descending the stairs to the fermentation room is an aromatic experience never to be forgotten.

At the doorway of this warm “womb” of the distillery, you encounter a virtual wall of pleasurable scents revealing the many Nova Scotian fruits which are the key ingredients in the distillery’s array of tastes. Pierre and Lynne source their fruits and berries from throughout Nova Scotia. Boates orchards is the place where the apples and pears are ground to a mash, step one in the stilling process.

Along with these fruits is molasses developed from Guatemalan sugar cane, from New Brunswick. Two hundred litres of molasses combined with eighteen hundred litres of water yields the right amount of brix (sweetness measure) for rum making.

The “fermentation stage” is a four to six week process. Compare that with only three to four days in the big US distilleries. These artisans take their time to produce their silky smooth rums, vodkas and liqueurs.

In this historic cellar, with stout beams capable of supporting the two black forges above, your feet are surprised by the warmth of the new cement floor.  How is this possible?  The boiling waters of the distillery are cycled throughout the building and floor…keeping both Ironworks artisans and spirits efficiently warmed.

Two Noses are better than one
We asked Lynne about the best ways to appreciate her spirits of Lunenburg, and we were surprised when in guiding our scenting of the liqueurs, she advised us to use both nostrils separately – apparently our sensory proficiencies vary from one to the other.

And then we learned another trick. Hold your nose closed as you first taste the liqueur; and then released the nostrils … your tastes buds on the tongue combine their discoveries with those of your “noses” and you will be able to sense even a wider array of tastes. The mind is enriched.

Lynne showed us the tasting glasses she feels are suited for liqueurs – they have a chimney shape, as opposed to the wide open mouths of wine and sherry snifters – all the better to capture and funnel the scents to your nose.

Pearing or Pairing
Lynne advised us that her liqueurs are perfectly paired when matched with some of Nova Scotia’s best cheeses – those whose strength of character make you take notice.  These are the cheeses that best complement the smooth and delicious sweetness of Nova Scotia raspberries, blueberries and cranberries. Lynne suggests you might also drizzle these special treats over a soufflé or ice cream.

At the end of a fine dining experience, the eau de vie de poire is nicely complemented by the flavours of fresh nuts – perhaps walnuts.

Your Daily Tot
Did you know that Canada`s Navy was the last navy in the world to offer a tot (a daily issue) of rum to the seamen?

When Ironworks was launched, the town “tasters” were quick to ascertain if rum would be a part of the distillery, and yes, along with vodka products, two wonderfully smooth sipping rums are given birth in the still.

In the coming guest season, Ironworks has partnered with Amos Pewter to create an authentic tot glass as well.

Artistic Spirits of Ironworks
The artists you’ll see at work in the Ironworks distillery, Pierre Guevremont and Lynne MacKay, with the assistance of Yuri Araj, the “keeper of the still”, produce:

            Vodka (from Annapolis Valley apples)
            Rum
            Blueberry Liqueur ( blueberries from Van Dyk’s)
            Cranberry Liqueur (cranberries from Terra Beata)
            Eau de Vie
            Apple Brandy

All these products are available at the distillery, Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market, Bishop’s Cellar, Premier Wine & Spirits and Harvest Wine & Spirits.

Raison d’être
“The whole reason for doing this is to make something special and unique, with our personal stamp on it, that we hope other people will enjoy. We’re constantly experimenting with different varieties and combinations of fruit and other ingredients, hoping to discover new taste possibilities. We backed up hands-on lessons from generous established distillers with a formal course at the agricultural school of Cornell University. We researched the best distilling technologies, talking to manufacturers as far away as Germany and New Zealand.” – Lynne and Pierre (owners)

Lynne and Pierre are just back from a “learning vacation” in France, where they honed their craft, learning from the artisans of Calvados.

Cheers
Let your senses run wild within this heritage building of Ironworks, now transformed into a magical set of experience opportunities for the nose, the eyes, the taste buds, and perhaps most intriguing – the mind.

Lynne and Pierre invite you to enjoy a taste or two with them … with your feet up beside the old forge, watching the sunset through a jumble of masts in Lunenburg harbour. You can even take a horse-drawn buggy right to their door.