Lobster or salmon? Which is the king of seafood in Nova Scotia? If taste were the only measure, we think the result would be a tie. However, if beauty and an evocation of the romance of the sea were the criteria, salmon would win hands down. The Atlantic salmon, with its distinctive silver skin with black cross-like spots over the body and head and above the lateral line, and pink succulent flesh is prized by sports fishermen and dining connoisseur alike. The real winner is the wild Atlantic salmon, which is born in fresh water, and then adapts to salt water, migrating to the open sea, returning to the rivers only to spawn. Very few of these fish are available in the market. Nova Scotia and the other Maritime provinces are in the forefront of the aquaculture industry and are producing farm-raised salmon that have the taste and texture of the wild variety. Atlantic salmon, (unlike the Pacific salmon varieties), is a member of the same family as the species of trout that can be found in Nova Scotia fish markets. These include the freshwater brown, rainbow and cutthroat and the salt-water steelhead trout. Salmon is so versatile that it can be poached, baked, broiled, grilled, steamed or microwaved with equally delicious results.

Salmon of course is not the only fresh fish available. There are many ways to substitute one type of fish for another. Trout, salmon, Arctic char (now also farm-raised) can fill in for one another. Sole, ocean perch and flounder are similar enough to act as substitutes for one another, as are swordfish, blue shark and halibut. Of course, in dishes that feature a particular texture or colour, the substitution will not work as well. But experimentation is fun and will expand your culinary repertoire. When preparing any fish, the general rule is to cook it for ten minutes for each inch (2.5cm) of thickness.

Freshness and careful handling are the key to preparing enjoyable seafood. Look for firm flesh without a hint of off-odors. Fresh fish needs to be refrigerated as soon as possible after purchase. It should be kept in the coldest part of the refrigerator, well wrapped and used within two days.

Storage:

Remove whole salmon, fillets or steaks from commercial packaging, wash and pat dry. Place in a sealed container or wrap in wax paper and refrigerate. Storage temperature 2°C (34°F); 2 days maximum for steaks and portions, 2-3 days maximum for whole fish. Freezing temperature:18°C (0°F), steaks and portion for a period of 2 months; whole for 3-4 months.

Thawing:

Microwave, use defrost cycle, partially defrost;

Refrigerator, thaw overnight in container;

Cold water: dip in cold water until partially defrosted.

Do not refreeze thawed salmon, once thawed, cook and re-freeze if necessary.

Serving portions:

Whole: 2-4 portions per kg; 1-2 portions per lb

Steaks: 4-6 portions per kg; 2-3 portions per lb

Fillets: 6-8 portions per kg; 3-4 portions per lb

Suggested Cooking Methods for Seafood:

Selecting the proper cooking technique for the type of seafood chosen will provide the best results.

Poaching, (in a court bouillon) and Steaming,: Arctic char, trout, halibut, mussels, scallops, salmon, steelhead, cusk, Boston bluefish, cod, haddock, sole, ocean perch, turbot, grenadier

Baking, (230°C (450°F): Arctic char, trout, halibut, mussels, scallops, salmon, steelhead, cusk, Boston bluefish, cod, haddock, sole, ocean perch, turbot, grenadier, blue shark, mako shark, oysters, swordfish

Broiling and Barbecuing,( turn halfway through cooking): Arctic char, trout, halibut, mussels, scallops, salmon, steelhead, cusk, Boston bluefish, cod, haddock, sole, ocean perch, turbot, grenadier, blue shark, mako shark, oysters, swordfish

Microwaving, (calculate cooking time by weight, allow 4-5 minutes per 500 g (1lb); let stand 1/4 cooking time): Arctic char, trout, halibut, mussels, scallops, salmon, steelhead, cusk, Boston bluefish, cod, haddock, sole, ocean perch, turbot, grenadier

Stir-frying, (sauté in frying pan with half oil and half butter): Arctic char, trout, halibut, mussels, scallops, salmon, steelhead, cusk, blue shark, mako shark, oysters, swordfish

Testing for Doneness: Fish is cooked when flesh loses its translucency and becomes opaque. To test, place the tines of a fork into the flesh at an angle and gently twist. If the flesh flakes easily and/or pulls away from the central bone the fish is properly cooked. Check in the centre of the flakes to make sure that it is no longer translucent.

Seafood Substitutions: In most recipes the following substitutions will work:

Trout: Atlantic salmon, Arctic Char, steelhead salmon

Haddock: cod, cusk, ocean catfish, Boston bluefish, hake, turbot, monkfish

Sole: ocean perch, grenadier, and flounder

Swordfish: blue shark, mako shark, halibut, and tuna

Lobster: crab, monkfish, pink shrimp, scallops

Mussels: clams